​  AMERICAN TUB REFINISHING

           864 - 326 - 6950

​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​                                             864-326-6950

MOBILE SERVICE from GREENVILLE SOUTH CAROLINA SERVING to SPARTANBURG, GREENWOOD, ANDERSON and SURROUNDING AREAS.

Payment types:   Check, American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Hours:
Monday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Tuesday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Wednesday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Thursday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Friday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Saturday: Closed
Sunday: Closed

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**Please read the frequently asked questions after the pricing section as it helps us both. We cannot possibly go over in detail every issue and different cost of every type of refinishing job during a phone conversation if you are not well informed. I provide upfront prices on the most common types of refinishing to treat everyone equal, no vague low too high to see if you can pay more, no phony percentage off gimmicks to make it seem as if you are getting a better deal. I only use one brand and type of coating for all jobs, and it is "Made in the USA". That stated you need to read the pricing section carefully so that there is no surprise if your refinish job requires an extra charge. When you call and are unable to give information on your refinishing job, I am unable to give you a correct price. I take no joy in informing of an extra cost when I arrive to do your refinish that is why I list the fees up front, any of the other sites do that? Below the pricing section you will find 99% of what you need and want to know about the refinishing process. Feel free to ask me about the process and information that follows when we talk, thank you. (*** I do not refinish for hotels or motels under any circumstance. I do not refinish clawfoot bathtubs, jetted bathtubs, walk in tile showers, bathroom sinks, bathroom floors, counter tops or cultured marble.)

Bathtubs of steel or cast iron up to 30"x 60"   $395
Measure your bathtub:  From wall above tub to furthest outer edged of step over then from

wall to wall above tub at longest length. 

*Cost of refinishing tubs larger than 30"x 60" quoted on per tub basis.
*Shower doors must be removed prior to my arrival.
*Add $20 when a shower door frame is on step over (recommend you remove frame from step over).
*Add $30 for no-slip added into floor of bathtub refinish.
*Add $30 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.
*When a cast iron tub has excessive surface pitting there is an additional charge for filler.

​Fiberglass non shower bathtubs No jets No steps No wall surrounds from $495
Measure your bathtub:  Up to 30"(wall to outer edged) X 60" from $495
*Fiberglass bathtubs larger than 30" x 60" quoted on a per tub basis.
*When a tub needs patch(s) there is an additional charge based on material and labor.
*Add $45 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.

*I cannot refinish a fiberglass bathtub that has a prior refinish not done by me.



I do not refinish clawfoot bathtubs: I am finding due to the age of these type bathtubs the preparation work required for the majority is more than can be done in a bathroom. As 

I only do mobile refinishing I am no longer refinishing clawfoot bathtubs.

​Fiberglass shower bathtub with wall surround: 
Measure your bathtub:  Up to 30"(wall to outer edged)  X 60" from $780
*Oversize bathtub/surround larger than 30" x 60" quoted on a per tub basis.
*Add $100 with connected fiberglass ceiling.
*Add $45 when a shower door frame is present (Recommend you remove frame).

*Shower door(s) must be removed prior to my arrival.
*Add $45 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.
*When a tub/shower needs a patch(s) there is an additional charge based on material and labor.

*I cannot refinish a fiberglass bathtub with a prior refinish not done by me. 

Fiberglass walk in shower:
Measure your shower:
Up to 30"(wall to outer edged) X 60" from $780
*Oversize or handicap quoted per job due to size differences.
*Add $100 with connected fiberglass ceiling.
*Add $45 when a shower door frame is present (Recommend removing frame)

*Shower door(s) must be removed prior to my arrival.
*Add $45 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.
*When a shower needs a patch(s) there is an additional charge based on material and labor.

*I cannot refinish a fiberglass shower with prior refinish not done by me.

*I do not refinish walk in tile showers.


TUB AND TILE

Standard size 30"X 60" cast iron/steel tub and surrounding tile of
12 rows high of four (4) inch tile x 26 rows wide of four (4) inch tile = 312 tiles from $780
*Fiberglass tubs with tile quoted on a per tub basis.
*Add 1ºº for each additional 4-inch tile over 312 tiles that directly surround the bathtub.
*Add $50 if your steel or cast-iron bathtub has had a prior refinishing.
*Add $45 when a shower door frame is present (recommend you remove frame).

*Shower door(s) must be removed prior to my arrival.
*Add $45 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.
*Check your grout condition if you have grout loss/wear you need to have it repaired before refinishing.
*When a cast iron tub has excessive surface pitting there is an additional charge for filler.
*When a tub needs a patch(s) there is an additional charge based on material and labor.

*I cannot refinish tile walls or a fiberglass tub that has a prior refinish not done by me.


            

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     The following is everything, you as a consumer, should know about refinishing and what some in this trade do not want you to know. Bathtub and wall tile refinishing, resurfacing, painting and reglazing are all the same.  Some companies use descriptions and terms to make it seem as if they are applying the original type of factory finish.  They are not, everyone in this trade that travels to your site applies a coating over the factory finish.  The process of an original factory finish cannot be done in your bathroom.  On cast iron and steel tubs the factory coating is baked on at 1500 °F and that is not happening in your bathroom.  If you get the feeling they are coming across as if they do a factory type refinish then that should be a red flag.  Class A factory finishes that are visually similar to a baked-on finish are difficult if not impossible to duplicate on rough surfaces with deep damage.  No coating will be visually 100% perfect mainly because it is applied in a bathroom and not in an environmentally controlled spray booth, so dust or other small particulates may land on the coating during and after the process (*how you can reduce this is explained later).  If anyone tells you different, they are not being honest or they are not qualified to do the work.  When done correctly with quality materials refinishing is an excellent long-term cost-effective option to replacement.  All that being said there are no complicated super-secret miracle methods of refinishing that cannot be explained or are not allowed to be explained to you as some companies profess.  Just common-sense practices used for any surface preparation and coating application.

  What separates reputable refinishers from the not so reputable are the materials and equipment used to do the job.  The most common reasons for a coating to fail is the surface was not properly prepared, or all to often, just not prepared at all and/or the coating used is not made for water submersion.  You can protect your wallet and property, if you ask the right questions and you know the correct process.

1.  The first question is "What type of coating do you use?"  The answer should be "A urethane coating."  If they are applying anything other than a urethane it will not last.

2.  The second question is "How do you prepare the surface?"  The answer should be "On metal tubs, a mild etch or adhesive promoter is applied, and on fiberglass the surface is wet sanded."  If these steps are not done the coating will fail due to not being able to bond to the smooth nonporous surface.

3.  The third question is "How do you apply the coating?"  The answer should be "With a HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray system."  If they say that it is brushed and/or rolled applied or sprayed from a spray paint can then they are most definitely up to no good.

  Unfortunately, some are just out to do substandard work and take your money, not to provide a quality service.  On this site I have pictures of what equipment a professional refinisher will bring to a job site. You are paying good money for a service, so do not hesitate to send someone away if they arrive without the proper equipment.  

   I carry current invoices showing that I have purchased urethane and etcher, not generic handwritten invoices anyone can buy at any office supply store.  Ask the other companies if you can see their original invoices showing they use these products before they start. You are paying for these products to have the work done correctly, not just for the labor. Why would they not show you what you are paying for?

  I am not charging too little for a quality refinish others just charge more for the same process. What allows me to offer a lower price is that I am an independent refinisher with no franchise fees owed to a distant corporation.  Also, I just specialize in mobile refinishing bathtubs, showers and wall tile which keeps my operating costs lower than most. Where some others will refinish anything that does not run away and may do other trades which will increase their operating costs, I do not.  Beware of the inflated warranty to justify their inflated price and the "price matcher" if they offer to match my prices then why not offer them to begin with.  Most likely because they need the higher fees to make a profit because their cost of doing business is higher than mine.  Do you want someone doing a job for you knowing they are taking a loss just to price match who then might not feel they owe you anything if an issue arises?
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What should I do before you arrive?
   I want you to have the best finish possible. Make sure you have *lighting*, *power* and *water* as they are all needed to refinish your tub. Without any one of these your tub cannot be refinished. If the surface to be refinished has heavy soap film, tile grout or any other material that needs to be scraped off an additional $30-$45 fee will apply. To help prevent dust and debris from settling on to the finish while it is being applied, I ask that you remove all the toiletries, nick knacks and floor items from the bathroom and wipe everything down then sweep the dust out of the bathroom. Some bathrooms are dustier than others but with your help a dust free bathroom will go a long way in giving you a beautiful finish. I have no control over dust and debris that are in your bathroom from landing on the coating. Make sure your hot and cold controls and waterspout do not leak or have a constant drip. If they are leaking or dripping you should have them fixed before the tub is refinished, so as not to expose your new tub surface to a plumbing repair where metal tools and parts are being used. I can work around most dripping spouts, but not from the controls when the water is running down the wall into tub.

My bathtub has been refinished before.
  I refinish steel and cast-iron bathtubs weekly with prior coatings for an additional $50 fee. I do not refinish fiberglass or tile that has been refinished by another company. It is to labor intensive and cost prohibitive to remove the coating for a proper refinish. Some refinishers will spray over old tile and fiberglass shower coatings I will not, how can they warranty what they do when it is applied over work done by someone else ? They cannot.

How long will it take?
  The average clean and debris free tub takes approximately 4 hours to complete. If your tub has been refinished once before or has soap buildup and other materials, the process may take 5 to 6 hours. A fiberglass tub with three smooth walls may take 5 to 6 hours. A tub with three tiled walls 5 to 6 hours. All times are approximate and could run longer or shorter.

How long will it last?
  When done professionally, a refinished bathtub can last 5 - 10 years before you may want to have it refinished again. It will depend on the care and type of use it will be exposed to. Wall tile can last longer since tile is not being immersed in hot water and also not subject to the same chemicals as a bathtub. When not damaged by being chipped and/or exposed to acid cleaners, caustic drain products or mats with suction cups your new surface will not peel or bubble up.

How long before I can use it?
   Your refinished tub will take approximately 48 hours to completely cure. Cure time is critical in giving you a durable long-lasting finish. Finishing products that claim a 6-to-24-hour cure time may be more convenient, but the end result of having to add a fast cure chemical is a brittle coating that will be more prone to chipping. I use one of the best American made urethanes. The 48-hour cure time of this urethane will give you a beautiful and durable finish.

Do you apply caulking?
    I do not caulk; I will remove the old caulking on the area to be refinished. Companies offering same day caulking are not doing you a service when it is applied to a wet finish! A refinished bathtub needs at least 24 hours drying time before caulking should be done. Companies who offer to return the next day charge considerably more money than my upfront refinishing fee to cover the return trip. My schedule usually does not permit me to return the next day even with an additional charge. If caulking is not your strong point, there are companies who will do the job at considerable savings when you factor in that I have done half their job already by removing the old caulk.

How do I take care of my new surface?
   No longer are you going to feel like you just had a workout after cleaning your tub scrubbing and scrubbing just to get it clean. The dirt, film and soap scum will wipe and rinse off without having to use abrasive cleaners, brushes or scrub pads. Just use a non-abrasive cleaner and soft sponge and then wipe the tub clean, No S-O-S Pads, No Mr. Eraser, No Comet, No Soft Scrub. I recommend these popular cleaners called Scrubbing Bubbles Bathroom Cleaner and Lysol Basin Tub & Tile Cleaner or their generic equals. Never use mats with suction cups.

Is there a warranty?
  Yes, there is a 5 year NO PRORATE warranty on your new finish. Ask the other guys if their 5–15-year warranty is prorated. With a prorate they will charge you a larger percentage as time goes on of what you paid them for their original work seriously, they want you to pay for their failure. I would not insult your intelligence with a worthless gimmicky warranty with which they can easily deny your claim. With the process I use I do not prorate as there are no failures from coating application because I do all the work. The only issues occur when instructions are not followed such as exposure to abrasive cleaning pads, brushes, acid cleaners, caustic cleaners, drain products and mats with suction cups. I do not cover rust, neglect, chipping or scratches due to impact or improper cleaning and use of tub.

Is there a strong smell?
  An industrial exhaust system is used to vent the fumes out of the house not a small box fan like some use. The fumes will be vented out through a window or door and the odor will be minimal. Keep in mind that the actual spraying process only takes 30 to 60 minutes and once the spraying process is complete any minor fumes or odor will dissipate out of the house within 20 to 30 minutes.  You will of course still have a coating odor in the bathroom where the work was done. The door will be closed once the work is completed and the odor in the bathroom will dissipate as your new finish dries.

How durable is the finish?
  I use one of the best urethane products in the country. The new urethanes that are available today are incredible! They look like porcelain, and they are very durable with the ability to expand and contract with temperature changes plus having flexibility. With normal use your new finish can last 5 - 10 years at which point you can simply have it refinished again. Much easier than tearing out a tub and a lot less expensive. Refinished tile can last longer as the tile is not typically being immersed in hot water and also not subject to the same wear as a bathtub.

Is white the only color available?
  I offer a mild off white and a darker tinted white called China white. I do not have a bright white. To keep costs down for both of us I do not do custom colors.

​Will my bathtub look factory new?
  That depends on your tub/shower surface condition. If the surface is smooth with just normal wear, it can look very near like a factory finish. When a surface especially the walls are severely pitted and/or scratched just spraying a coating on it cannot make it smooth, but it will help. Small scratches, chips and cracks on flat areas are mostly filled by the primer and final coating as part of the process. Unscrupulous refinishers won't tell you that and will charge you. Some large chips, cracks, pitting and scratches can be repaired during the prepping process with a filler for an additional fee, which varies on amount of work needed.

Do you refinish clawfoot bathtubs?
   I no longer refinish this type of bathtub as a mobile service. I do sell restored clawfoot bathtubs. Copy the link below for restored clawfoot bathtubs for sale.

https://greenville.craigslist.org/atq/d/belton-clawfoot-bathtub-restored-claw/7485815677.html

What if my tub has rust spots?
  During the prepping process rusted areas are cleaned and sanded. Many older tubs and sometimes the newer ones will have rust stains from iron in the water or actual rust where the porcelain has been worn or damaged exposing the metal allowing rust. The refinishing process does not and should not remove the factory finish, so nothing I do will expose new areas of metal, only wear and impacts will do that. Unlike the thick cast iron tubs when it comes to the thin stamped steel tubs and rust, the rust will win eventually. That is why I never use the term rust repair for these types of tubs, and I do not warranty against rust. The thin stamped steel tubs rust through from the underside and eventually can fail, so no one can control that. Anyone who says they will warranty for rust is just saying what they think you want to hear and/or are stupid, can you trust that person?

Do you need to remove the drain?
  YES, it is always best to have the drain removed so the coating will be under the drain not up to the drain edge. If a coating stops at the drain edge you then have a weak area around the drain that will eventually peel so if another tells you differently, they are just saying what they think you want to hear to get the job. I can spray over a drain​ only when there is NO visible rusting around the drain. All drains that are bronze, brushed or nickel must be removed as the drain finish will not survive the refinishing process and even most newer chrome drains have such a cheap thin chrome layer they also will not survive. I have found that chrome drains from the 70's and older depending on condition have a 50/50 chance of not losing chrome finish. If you decide to spray to the edge of an older drain, I will not guarantee the coating around the drain. I do not mind trying to remove a drain that has been installed within the last 10 years or so, but I am not a plumber with all the different specialty tools needed to remove stubborn drains that have had decades to bond with drainpipes. Sometimes they need to be cut out which is something I do not do. I will stress that 

whatever you decide is best for your situation I must have running water from the bathtub spout and it must

drain away by the drain into the drainpipe as I have to run water for 30-60 minutes constant to prep and clean bathtub surface. As homes plumbing age or have had substandard repairs done to plumbing, I am seeing more drainpipes at the bathtubs have issues when removing drains that I have no control over, and I cannot fix to continue my work. Some issues are the drainpipe is not secured so when drain is removed the pipe falls below tub out of reach and I cannot install a temporary drain to do my work. I might find loose pipe at the connections old and NEW that will let water leak that will not let me do my job. So, if you have read this far you should have an understanding that not dealing with a drain can stop a refinish before it can start. If you call me, we can go over your particular situation and figure out what is best for you so when I arrive, I can do the work.

Do shower doors need to be removed?
  Yes, shower doors will need to be removed prior to my arrival for refinishing. Only the doors will have to be removed and "not" the track on the tub step over or the tracks on the side walls. The tracks will be carefully masked off before spraying. I will say that the final refinish will always look better and last longer if the tracks are removed. To remove or not is your decision I can advise on which you should do for your particular situation.  *If you are not physically capable of removing the doors yourself, I will remove them for you with the written understanding that I am not responsible for any damage to your doors and I will not be able to return and rehang them. I do not remove tracks under any circumstance, please remove them if you no longer want shower doors or are updating the door(s).

                                                          What finish do you use?
                               I only use a quality American made urethane.                            

Epoxies:        First used when tub refinishing became available.                                                                                Now you will only find the fly by night companies using epoxies.                                                                  They will yellow over time and are not meant to be immersed in water.

Acrylics:         Acrylics were a great improvement over epoxies. The tub refinishing
                   industry started putting out better looking tubs.
                   Many refinishers are still using the Acrylics to save on their cost.

Urethanes:       They are the most durable and they will not yellow over time.  Reputable bathtub refinishers are using the new Urethanes available today. When it comes to your new finish, I spare no expense. Urethane is the only type of coating that I use.